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The best-preserved ancient Greek city in the world. Saint Paul preached here. The library is still standing.
The Forgotten Atlas — Field Report
The best-preserved ancient Greek city in the world. Saint Paul preached here. The library is still standing.
Ephesus was one of the great cities of the ancient world — at various points the capital of the Roman province of Asia, the home of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World (the Temple of Artemis, now reduced to a single reconstructed column in a field), and a city of 250,000 people in its 1st-century AD prime. It is the best-preserved ancient Greek city in the world. The Library of Celsus, built in 117 AD as a mausoleum for the Roman senator Tiberius Julius Celsus, has been partially restored and its two-storey facade stands almost complete — one of the most photographed ancient buildings in the world, for the very good reason that it is extraordinary.
Walking down the marble street of Ephesus, with the Library at the end of it and the columns on either side, you understand for the first time what it actually meant to live in the ancient world.
The Forgotten Atlas
The Great Theatre of Ephesus held 25,000 people and is the theatre where Saint Paul, according to Acts of the Apostles, caused a riot by preaching against the worship of Artemis. It is still in extraordinary condition. The Terrace Houses — a set of wealthy Roman townhouses preserved under a protective structure — contain mosaics, frescoes, and mosaic floors in such good condition that they look recent. These require a separate ticket and are worth every penny. The Temple of Hadrian, the Fountain of Trajan, the marble road running to the harbour — Ephesus is enormous and requires a full day.
Ephesus is near the modern city of Selçuk, an hour from Izmir. The House of the Virgin Mary, on the hill above the site, is where tradition holds that Mary spent her final years — it is a pilgrimage site visited by Christians and Muslims alike. The Basilica of Saint John, where the apostle is buried, is a short distance from Selçuk and a site of significant archaeological interest. The Aegean coast nearby — Kuşadası, Bodrum, Alaçatı — is some of the finest in Turkey. Combine a few days in Selçuk with time on the coast.
Stay in Selçuk rather than Kuşadası. It is smaller, quieter, and the guesthouses are better value. Enter the site at opening (8am in summer) before the cruise ship passengers arrive.
The most famous façade in the ancient world after the Colosseum. Come here first thing before the crowds.
Where Saint Paul preached. 25,000 capacity. Still used for performances. The acoustics are still perfect.
The private homes of Ephesus's wealthy citizens, preserved under a roof structure. The frescoes and mosaics are extraordinary. Separate ticket required. Do not skip.
1km from the main site. A single reconstructed column in a field. The contrast between this and Ephesus — a Wonder of the World reduced to this — is affecting.
The most reliable traditional Turkish food near the site. The meze spread and the lamb dishes are outstanding.
Good Turkish food with a view of the aqueduct. The köfte and the pide are the dishes to order.
The Turkish breakfast — olives, cheese, tomatoes, eggs, bread — served at a guesthouse in Selçuk is one of the great morning rituals of travel.
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