History Lovers
Jordan
A complete Roman city, almost entirely intact. Almost nobody visits it.
The Forgotten Atlas — Field Report
A complete Roman city, almost entirely intact. Almost nobody visits it.
Jerash is the best-preserved Roman provincial city in the world that is not Pompeii. Unlike Pompeii, it was not preserved by disaster — it was preserved by a combination of earthquake damage that discouraged later construction, and centuries of sand coverage that protected the structures beneath. The result is a Roman city of the 1st to 3rd centuries AD that is more completely intact than almost anything in Rome itself: the colonnaded main street (the cardo maximus), the oval forum (unique in the Roman world), two theatres, temples to Artemis and Zeus, a hippodrome, and the city walls. Walk down the cardo and the columns on either side make the scale of Roman civic ambition immediately comprehensible.
Standing in Jerash, you understand why Rome was Rome. The engineering, the planning, the sheer confidence of a civilisation that believed it would last forever.
The Forgotten Atlas
Most visitors to Jordan go to Petra and possibly Wadi Rum. Jerash, an hour north of Amman, receives a fraction of Petra's visitors despite being equally extraordinary. The South Theatre seats 3,000 people and has acoustics that still function perfectly — a guide standing at the stage and whispering can be heard clearly at the back of the top row. The Temple of Artemis, dedicated in 150 AD, has columns with a slight wobble visible in earthquake wind that demonstrates the sophistication of ancient engineering: the foundations were designed to move without failing.
Jerash is 48km north of Amman and easily done as a day trip from the Jordanian capital. Amman itself is underrated as a city — the Roman Citadel on the hill above the downtown, the Roman theatre in the centre, the food scene in the Weibdeh and Jabal Amman neighbourhoods, and the position it occupies as a gateway to both Petra and the north. Budget two days for Amman and a day each for Jerash and one day trip to the Dead Sea.
Take a taxi or minibus from Amman's North Bus Station. Allow four hours at the site. Combine with the Ajloun Castle, 30 minutes further north — a 12th-century Islamic fortress with extraordinary views.
The entry point to the city. Unique in the Roman world — an elliptical public space enclosed by columns. Arrive here first.
The main colonnaded street. Over 800 metres long, flanked by columns, with the original paving stones still in place including the ruts from Roman cart wheels.
The more accessible of the two theatres. 3,000 seats. Perfect acoustics. Still used for performances during the Jerash Festival.
The largest temple complex in the city. The wobbling columns are the thing everyone comes to see.
The best food near the site. Traditional Jordanian-Lebanese cooking. The mezze spread and the grilled meats are reliable.
Base in Amman and day-trip. The restaurant scene in Amman is one of the finest in the Middle East. Fakhreldin and Sufra are the two great traditional restaurants.
A Jordanian institution. Falafel, hummus, ful — served since 1952 to everyone from King Abdullah to backpackers. The most important breakfast in Jordan.
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