TOKYO

Travel Like Bourdain

Tokyo

Japan

Ignore the tourist version. The city worth eating in is underground.

The Forgotten Atlas — Field Report

The City That Perfected Everything

Ignore the tourist version. The city worth eating in is underground.

By The Forgotten Atlas · Japan

The Real Tokyo

Tokyo has more Michelin stars than any other city on Earth. That fact tells you almost nothing useful. The Michelin stars are real but they are not the point. The point is the ramen shop under the elevated train tracks in Shinjuku that has been open since 1965 and serves one thing and does it better than anyone. The point is the tiny tempura counter in Asakusa where the chef has been frying the same ingredients in the same oil for thirty years and has achieved something that cannot be taught. The point is the yakitori stall in the alley behind the station where the smoke rises into the night and the beer costs two dollars and the skewers cost one.

Japan is the only place where I can eat something I do not even know what it is, and it is perfect.

Anthony Bourdain

How to Eat in Tokyo

Go underground. Go into basements. Go through the unmarked doors and down the narrow staircases. Tokyo's greatest restaurants are not visible from the street — they are tucked into floors that require a local to know they exist. The food halls in the basement of any major department store (the depachika) are an introduction to the range and quality of Japanese food culture that nothing else prepares you for. Walk through one before you do anything else.

The Neighbourhoods That Matter

Shinjuku for the izakayas and the chaos of Golden Gai — a tiny grid of alleyways containing over 200 bars, each one the size of a large wardrobe. Shibuya for the crossing and the energy. Yanaka for an older, quieter Tokyo that survived the war and the earthquakes and feels like a village inside a megalopolis. Tsukiji outer market for the best breakfast in the city at 6am, surrounded by people who have been working since before dawn.

Give it a week minimum. Five years would not be enough. Come back.

The Neighbourhoods

Shinjuku

The eating and drinking centre of the city. Golden Gai's 200 tiny bars. Omoide Yokocho's yakitori smoke. The department store food halls. Start here.

Yanaka

A neighbourhood that survived the wartime bombing intact. Old wooden buildings, independent shops, a cemetery with cherry trees, and the feeling of a city that used to be.

Shimokitazawa

Bohemian, musical, vinyl record shops and jazz bars and small theatres. The Tokyo that artists and musicians live in.

Tsukiji Outer Market

The market proper moved but the outer section remains. Come at 6am. Eat tamagoyaki, fresh sushi, and grilled scallops for breakfast.

Where to Eat

01

Ichiran Ramen

Solo dining booths, a customisation form, and a bowl of tonkotsu ramen that arrives through a bamboo curtain. Strange, private, and extraordinary.

02

Afuri

Yuzu shio ramen — light, citrus-bright, completely unlike the heavy broths you may be expecting. A revelation.

03

Daiwa Sushi (Tsukiji)

Arrive at 5am. Queue. When you sit down, order the omakase and eat the best nigiri of your life surrounded by people who work in the market.

04

Yakitori Alley, Yurakucho

Under the train tracks. Smoke, noise, cold beer, skewers. Every office worker in Tokyo comes here on a Friday. Join them.

05

Kyubey

One of Tokyo's great sushi institutions. Expensive. Worth every yen. The toro here is the benchmark against which all other toro is measured.

Quick Facts

Best TimeMarch — May (cherry blossom) or Oct — Nov (autumn colour)
CurrencyJapanese Yen (JPY). Still largely cash-based.
Daily Budget$60 — $120 depending on eating choices
LanguageJapanese. English signage widespread on transit.
VisaVisa-free for most nationalities up to 90 days
Getting ThereNarita or Haneda airports. Haneda is closer.
Getting AroundThe train system is extraordinary. IC card. Never a taxi.

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