History Lovers
Libya
Better preserved than anything in Rome. Almost nobody has been here.
The Forgotten Atlas — Field Report
Better preserved than anything in Rome. Almost nobody has been here.
Leptis Magna is the best-preserved Roman city in the world. Better than Pompeii, better than anything surviving in Rome itself, better than Ephesus. An entire Roman city — the forum, the theatre, the circus, the baths, the harbour, the colonnaded main street — preserved under Saharan sand for centuries and now exposed and standing in the Libyan sun two hours east of Tripoli. The city was the birthplace of Septimius Severus, who became Roman Emperor in 193 AD and immediately began transforming his hometown into one of the finest cities in the empire. What he built is still there.
Leptis Magna is the great secret of the Mediterranean. A complete Roman city, almost entirely intact, in a country that almost no one visits. That combination makes it one of the most extraordinary places on Earth.
The Forgotten Atlas
The Severan Arch stands at the entrance to the city, four-sided, carved with scenes of triumph. The Hadrianic Baths are vast — the scale of Roman public bathing culture becomes immediately comprehensible here in a way that photographs cannot capture. The theatre, carved into the hillside above the sea, held 5,000 people and still looks as if a performance could begin at any moment. The colonnaded street that Septimius Severus built runs for hundreds of metres through the city centre, the columns still standing, some still connected by the original architrave.
Libya is not currently a simple destination. The political situation has been unstable since 2011, and travel requires research, advance planning, and ideally an established local contact or a reputable tour operator who works in the country. This is not a destination for spontaneous travel. It is, however, a destination for serious travellers who understand that the places that require effort are usually the places that reward it most. If you can get there safely, Leptis Magna will be the most remarkable ancient site you have ever visited.
Check your government's current travel advisory before planning any trip to Libya. When conditions allow, a specialist tour operator is the recommended approach.
The civic centre of the city. The basilica here still has its original columns standing. The carved pilasters are among the finest Roman decorative work surviving anywhere.
Carved into the hill above the sea. The stage backdrop (scaenae frons) is partially restored. The view from the upper seats over the Mediterranean is extraordinary.
Septimius Severus rebuilt the harbour entirely. The colonnaded quayside is partially preserved and the scale of Roman maritime infrastructure becomes clear here.
The chariot racing track. One of the best-preserved circuses in the Roman world. The scale is staggering.
Stay in Tripoli and day-trip to Leptis. The Medina contains traditional Libyan restaurants serving harissa lamb and bazeen that are outstanding.
In the old city of Tripoli. Traditional Libyan food in a historic setting.
There are no reliable food facilities at Leptis itself. Bring water and food from Tripoli.
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