Forgotten Places
Namibia
They found diamonds here in 1908. Built a town. Then the diamonds ran out and they walked away.
The Forgotten Atlas — Field Report
They found diamonds here in 1908. Built a town. Then the diamonds ran out and they walked away.
In 1908 a railway worker named Zacharias Lewala found a diamond in the sand near the railway line at Kolmanskop. Within weeks the area was crawling with prospectors. The Germans, who controlled the territory then known as German South West Africa, declared a Sperrgebiet — a forbidden territory — and set about mining the deposits systematically. They built a town in the desert: proper German houses with a hospital, a ballroom, a casino, a skittle alley, and the first X-ray machine in the southern hemisphere. At its peak Kolmanskop produced more than 11% of the world's diamonds.
The sand is the most patient thing in Kolmanskop. It has all the time in the world and it knows it.
The Forgotten Atlas
After World War One the diamond deposits became depleted. Richer fields were discovered further south near the Orange River. By 1954 Kolmanskop was empty. The desert, which had been held at bay for fifty years by constant maintenance, immediately began to reclaim it. Sand poured through doors and windows. Dunes built up against walls and then over them. Roofs collapsed under the weight. Today Kolmanskop's houses are half-filled with sand — you look through a window at a room where the sand line rises to chest height, the German furniture still visible above the dune.
Kolmanskop is one of the most photographed abandoned places on Earth, and it deserves to be. The combination of the intact German colonial architecture, the Namib Desert light, and the sand that has flowed into every room like a slow-motion flood creates images unlike anywhere else. Come at first light when the sun rakes across the sand at low angles and the colours are extraordinary. The photography permit is included in the entrance fee. Take your time.
Kolmanskop is 10km from Lüderitz. Tour permits are available at the site. Lüderitz itself, a strange German colonial town on the edge of the Namib Desert, is worth a day of exploration.
The larger houses of the senior mining staff. The sand levels here are the highest — in some rooms you can barely see the ceiling from inside.
The first X-ray machine in the southern hemisphere was installed here. The equipment is partly still present.
The social centre of the community. The stage is still standing. The sand has reached the windowsills.
10km away. A German colonial town that feels transplanted directly from Bavaria to the edge of the Namib. Extraordinary and slightly hallucinatory.
German colonial food — schnitzel, sausages, beer — in a setting that matches the architecture. Strange and excellent.
Seafood from the cold Benguela current. The Namibian oysters and the crayfish are outstanding.
The best kitchen in Lüderitz. The setting over the lagoon is beautiful.
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