BAGAN

History Lovers

Bagan

Myanmar

Ten thousand temples built in 250 years. The most densely sacred landscape on Earth.

The Forgotten Atlas — Field Report

The Plain of Ten Thousand Temples

Ten thousand temples built in 250 years. The most densely sacred landscape on Earth.

By The Forgotten Atlas · Myanmar

The Plain

Between 1044 and 1287 AD the kings of the Pagan Empire built more than 10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas, and monasteries on a 40-kilometre plain beside the Irrawaddy River in central Myanmar. Today approximately 3,500 of them survive. From the air — from a hot air balloon at dawn, which is the way serious travellers see Bagan — the plain below is covered in temples as far as you can see in every direction, emerging from the morning mist as the sun rises. Nothing in the world looks like this. The closest comparison would be Angkor, and Bagan is larger.

Bagan at dawn from a balloon is one of those experiences that you spend the rest of your travelling life measuring other experiences against. It is that category of thing.

The Forgotten Atlas

The Temples

The temples of Bagan range from the enormous — Dhammayangyi, the largest, with walls so thick that the inner chambers are only accessible through narrow corridors — to tiny single-room shrines half-buried in the scrub. The Ananda Temple, built in 1105, is considered the finest expression of Mon architecture in Myanmar. The Shwezigon Pagoda, built by King Anawrahta, was the prototype for all Burmese pagodas that followed. The murals inside many of the smaller temples — frescoes painted in the 12th and 13th centuries — are extraordinarily well preserved and rarely visited.

The Practicalities

Myanmar's political situation since the 2021 military coup has made travel there complicated and ethically fraught. Tourism revenue is difficult to direct away from the military government. Before planning any trip, research the current situation thoroughly and consider how your visit and spending can best support local communities rather than the regime. The Bagan region's archaeological zone is administered independently and most tourist spending goes directly to local businesses. But this requires research and intention.

Research the current situation carefully before booking. When visiting, stay in locally-owned guesthouses, hire local guides directly, and eat in family restaurants rather than hotel restaurants.

The Neighbourhoods

Old Bagan

The area with the highest concentration of major temples. The Ananda, the Thatbyinnyu, the Gawdawpalin. Start here.

New Bagan

The village where many locals live following a government relocation. The restaurants and guesthouses here are the best value.

Nyaung-U

The nearest town to the archaeological zone. The local market here is one of the best in the region.

The Irrawaddy River

The river that the Pagan kings looked out on from their temples. A sunset boat trip on the Irrawaddy with the temples silhouetted behind is the closing image of Bagan.

Where to Eat

01

Weatherspoon's, New Bagan

Reliable Burmese food in New Bagan. The mohinga (fish noodle soup) and the tea leaf salad are the dishes to order.

02

Green Elephant

The most consistently good restaurant in the tourist area. Good for an introduction to the range of Burmese cuisine.

03

Local teahouses, Nyaung-U Market

The teahouse breakfast — laphet thoke (tea leaf salad), samosas, mohinga — in a local teahouse near the market. The most authentic start to any day in Bagan.

Quick Facts

Best TimeNovember — February. The hot season (March — May) is extreme.
CurrencyMyanmar Kyat (MMK). Cash economy. ATMs unreliable.
Daily Budget$40 — $80
LanguageBurmese. English spoken in tourist businesses.
VisaE-visa available but research current entry requirements
Getting ThereFly to Nyaung-U Airport from Yangon or Mandalay
Getting AroundElectric bikes (recommended), horse carts, bicycle. The zone is large.

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